Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the Telegram channel Nose Republic
We didn’t seem to notice how winter ended: Now is definitely the time to use sunscreen daily and plan your travels. Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova has collected for us fragrances reminiscent of the beach, the hot sun and the upcoming vacation somewhere far away from here.
Bitter and iodine Salis serves as an advertisement for the Mediterranean: here there is a fine mica of sea salt, and the interior warmth of vanilla, and island maquis – thickets of myrtle, immortelle and pistachios, huddled into a fragrant mug on the coast. Probably, of all the “salted” aromatic wine glasses that do not even think of going out of fashion, this one is the cheapest, but practically nothing, except perhaps persistence, is not inferior to the expensive Salina, Laboratorio Olfattivo.
Eau de Soleil Blanc
TOM FORD PRIVATE BLEND
At Jay-Z, the Tom Ford rhymes with the Concorde, but the former, unlike the infamous supersonic aircraft, will not fall apart en route to distant tropical islands. The assembly of Eau de Soleil Blanc is impeccable: the salty amber accord of its predecessor, the classic Soleil Blanc, remains the same, while the coconut has faded into the background, turning into the measured hum of a beach bar. The flowers, smothered by the heat, were turned on the sea breeze and brought out of swoon, citruses and cool cardamom were added – it turned out beautifully and not burdensome for others.
Virgin island water
For those who really love modern perfumery, it is easy to discount a brand like Creed: for prices, for a bloated collection, for the company’s pedigree, which supposedly stretches back to 1760, but does not pass the test. Finally, for a subservience to the hereditary power, strange for our century: every second fragrance from Creed, if not Royal, then Imperial. But the truth is that during its existence (whatever that time may actually be) the English brand has made many classics – from Aventus, which the fighters of the Moscow City dream of replacing water in coolers, to the almost brilliant Green Irish Tweed. Virgin Island Water is also a classic – “tropical” perfumery: it smells like coconuts, rum, lime and the most expensive pinacolada in your life.
You read the list of notes in the new Aerin fragrance like a poem: frangipani, ylang-ylang, hibiscus, palm leaf, coconut milk – everything you want to take in April instead of vitamins, externally and internally. Fans of Estée Lauder perfumery will recognize the central white-flowered accord of Tuberose Gardenia from the Private Collection, but in Hibiscus Palm it is beautifully set off with coconut – not the usual “cosmetic” solution, reminiscent of sunblock, but rather toasted coconut, which gives the aroma an interesting edibility.
Une Nuit Nomade
Strictly speaking, everything that the Une Nuit Nomade brand has is about rest; you take any fragrance from the collection and you get a sketch of a Balinese spa or moonlit beaches. The brand’s latest works, Memory Motel and Rose America, are already registered in Montauk, a small resort town on the east of Long Island, behind the Hamptons, known for three things: the secret Montauk project, lobster rolls and picturesque views of the Atlantic Ocean, against which the crazy novel in the TV series “Lovers”. Rose America is a sea rose in the spirit of Iroaz, Lostmarch and Rose Atlantic, DS & Durga, gray grass in the dunes, a disheveled rose hip bush on the shore. Perfectly blows through the head clogged with household dust.
Cozumel is a Mexican island opposite Playa del Carmen and one of the world’s best diving sites: the surrounding national park protects the second largest coral reef after the Great Barrier. A close-knit community of divers has developed here, and with them a certain way of life, which the authors of guidebooks stubbornly call “downshifting”. What does this mean for Cozumel? Tobacco and marijuana – this is how ingeniously niche perfumery works on the theme of inner freedom, opposed to trugodolism and corporate slavery. However, this scent has a smoky herbiness to the face, besides, from it, as from downshifting money, very quickly nothing remains – only a beautiful and quiet sandalwood.
Ylang in Gold
If the island of Netine was where Peter Pan settled with a tribe of lost boys, there was an official scent, it would be the scent of ylang-ylang – floral, fruity, grassy and animal at the same time, a ready-made perfume composition in itself. In “tropical” fragrances, ylang often works with the sun, imparting to them, like a bronzer to the skin, the notorious sunkissed look – an elegant golden glow that we associate with a good vacation at the sea. But in Ylang in Gold it comes to the fore: apart from ylang, creamy vanilla (a perfect combination – even in Reunion, their plantations sit side by side) and the signature Micallef musk, there seems to be nothing else here. And it is not necessary: as Wendy said, only those who are cheerful and ingenuous can fly.
The three lilies on the unofficial flag of the Caribbean island of Saint Barthélemy, or Saint Barts, are a reminder that this posh piece of land north of Venezuela still belongs to France. Lily Beach also smells of French island style: fresh, freshly watered greenery in the gardens, lily of the valley soap in the shaded guest rooms of Saint Barth’s villas, bouquets of white flowers arranged on the terrace of the famous Aux Amis restaurant. The smell of sweet life, by the way, is estimated rather modestly by the standards of modern niche perfumery.
Photo: Molecule, Lebra, Il de Bote, Aerin, Cosmotheca, Randewoo (1, 2, 3)