The most interesting thing that is happening today in the field of beauty, concerns, on the one hand, new formulas and developments, on the other, changes in the perception of appearance. Thus, the interest in “makeup without makeup” is due not only to a global revision of standards, but also to the fact that fresh products are becoming cooler from year to year – and more and more people can explain how to use them correctly.
Western blogs and publications have been writing about how thorough care began to fully compete with makeup for several years: perhaps the main trend of the era lies in the movement towards a “naked” face – but this time without jokes about “take these fifty-eight means” … Our authors have repeatedly asked questions about where the border lies between free choice and an attempt to correspond to ideas at the moment when we choose another nude lipstick or do not agree to abandon our favorite rituals in favor of an idea. We have already figured out whether the cleverly designed decorative cosmetics of the latest generation can replace skin care – and we decided that after all, not. But modern care has every chance to squeeze concealers and foundations.
In an article on The Blueprint, Masha Vorslav says that the aesthetic turn was outlined in 2014: then the iconic Marc Jacobs show took place, where models with a light hand from François Narsa came out with practically no makeup. The process has already gone beyond the catwalk prank: in the past five years, people whose appearance is in one way or another in focus or important for their profession, easily appear in public without a blurred face, celebrities criticize covers, the creators of which have overdone with Photoshop, and gloss and advertising are no longer so panicky to show the real texture of the skin.
In the telegram channel, Masha shows an advertisement for a new Kate Somerville spot remedy for inflammation – the first where acne itself finally appeared in the frame. Meanwhile, within the body-positive movement, an offshoot has clearly formed, which is called “acne-positive”: bloggers who share these views oppose the bullying of people with acne, share adequate care secrets and publish their photos without filters and makeup. All these healthy initiatives are moving in tiny steps and cannot yet compete with the dream of perfect glowing skin that both caregivers and decorative products are designed to fulfill, but they are already changing the way we think about what a living human face can look like.
It is still difficult to completely rid makeup of the functions that he diligently performed throughout the entire XX century: many means were invented precisely to mask the “flaws”. The role of care was not so significant for a long time: not so long ago, the era in which “baby cream” was almost the only product for skin care has passed. Today, the time has come to take care of the face: promising compounds are thoroughly studied, brands do not spare money and time to develop and update formulas, and in the circles of connoisseurs every now and then there is a fashion for certain substances. Moreover, while the place is for any opinions and preferences: someone cares about natural formulations and environmentally friendly packaging, while someone knows a lot about the concentrations of active substances and is not afraid of parabens. And perhaps the most graceful part of the story is that manufacturers are suddenly really getting closer to advertising promises that previously could be considered completely unrealizable. In today’s care, you can find more than one product that transforms the skin overnight, week or month – for real.
In the field of care, there is an opportunity to talk about diversity and an individual approach – here regularity and the right choice of means are important, and not the dictates of ideas about “how everyone needs it.” To those who are uncomfortable with dryness – they look towards some products, whose glasses move out due to the oily skin – others; universal recipes are replaced by work according to needs, and then on condition that it is generally important for a person. Beauty geeks who study Into The Gloss and The Beauty Brains do not need to explain for the hundredth time why sunscreen is so important and how retinol helps the skin, and links to research for their audience look more convincing than bright slogans. Brands are also involved in this approach: full-fledged blogs are started on the websites of cosmeceutical brands, in which experts write. And the strong success story of the Paula’s Choice brand, which began with the posts of the “cosmetic cop” about the myths of skin care, no longer looks fantastic. It seems that half invented millennials are wrongly accused of wanting everything at once: as you can see from the expanding audience of smart beauty resources, the younger generation is much more interested in the cumulative effect and a good contribution to the future than is commonly believed. At least when it comes to skin care.
Make-up is unlikely to disappear completely – after all, it’s not all that simple with it either. On the one hand, this is an industry with a gigantic money turnover and an aesthetic canon that does not die away overnight, but on the other, it is the territory of creativity and self-expression. Nevertheless, attention to care and an approach that implies a high awareness of the audience and the willingness of manufacturers to make sincere, albeit not so transcendental, promises can play a positive role in reducing the neuroticization of our relationship with appearance. A “bare face” is no longer a statement that requires courage, but evidence that comfort and self-love are becoming more important than pursuing an unattainable ideal.