TEXT: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
Perfume prices rise even faster than the prices of clothes, especially in the luxury and niche categories, and finding something truly interesting and affordable is becoming increasingly difficult. We have compiled a list of fragrances under 5,000 rubles that can withstand comparison with their much more expensive competitors.
The first commandment of perfumery work with lavender is “do no harm”, because it is very easy to ruin a lavender scent: with a heavy gourmet body kit, modern amber-wood materials designed to provide deadly durability, or a whole barrel of musks that smell like a barbershop a mile away. Surprisingly, there are not so many lavender perfumes that allow its main note to ring in full force of its natural beauty today, and the best – still, after a quarter of a century – Encens et Lavande, Serge Lutens 1996. The latter are good for everyone, except for their price and inaccessibility, so you have to look for alternatives from other, more budgetary brands. For example, the French have Molinard, who ate a couple of scented dogs to produce charming, deceptively simple, natural-sounding compositions such as Lavande, a fresh yet warm lavender with subtle golden embroidery of amber and vanilla.
Good flankers of perfumes, especially classical ones, are those that treat the original with care. In each new reincarnation of the “Angel” you hope to find a piece of his shining soul, the preserved memory of past incarnations, and in Iced Star, the new summer Mugler limit, you find all this – both the iconic “angelic” accord, and tropical fruits (here: coconut and pineapple ), and the astounding volume of this legendary perfume construction, filled with shades and meanings. A wonderful remake, one of the best in the franchise.
The most interesting Spanish brand of recent years has been releasing its perfume in two volumes corresponding to the brand name: 27 and 87 milliliters. The second one may be a bit big, but the first one seems ideal for those who are used to living a rich and varied perfumery life, but prefer full-fledged bottles, even such small ones, to samplers and castings. Do not let the external charm of the “little Sónar” fool you: inside there is a whole music festival, sweet and recognizably smelling of concert smoke and overheated wiring.
Neroli, an essential oil of orange blossom, is one of the most typical materials of the Côte d’Azur and the most important line in the income graph of local farming. Agricultural cooperatives that unite local farmers usually have large shops where you can buy seedlings of fruit trees in tubs, all kinds of fragrant alcohol, often produced by the same farmers, and simple but very soulful colognes with southern French herbs and “different citrus” – lavender, rosemary and the same neroli. With its lightness, cheerful disposition and beautiful green seamy side, Cap Néroli resembles inexpensive store waters from the Riviera, but its durability and other technical qualities are much closer to the chic “luxury”.
Another good neroli fragrance in our selection is the new Girl by the veteran and respected French brand Rochas. The brand may be old, but the positioning of the “Girl” is very modern, even topical: right on the box, in a neat column, all the main advantages of the novelty are listed, including 90% of ingredients of natural origin, recycled glass, and “extracts from calming effect ”- a real beauty bingo of recent years. Those who are afraid of getting an extremely neutral fragrance complete with the stated values, which is not capable of offending anyone’s feelings or receptors of delight, do not worry: she made the “Girl” by Anne Flipo, the grand lady of white-flower perfume (L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons, Jo Malone Basil & Neroli). Another perfume with neroli on her resume and again excellent, delicate and rich in nuances: gold pollen, powder and sunlight in a speckled crown.
Translated from the Italian terra means “land” – the Gioia line, which previously plowed the waters and airspace (Acqua, Air and Sun already came out), finally washed ashore. The transition to a new state of aggregation affected the smell in the best way: the new Terra is more weighty – in every sense, including the artistic one – of its ephemeral predecessors in the collection and is a very successful digest of several perfume trends at once. Fans of mineral water will find hot sand here, experienced “flower growers” – good jasmine, and those who love cosmetic fragrances will like the light shade of the classic face cream, which our mothers and grandmothers used to have. All together add up to a picture of an Italian resort from Fellini’s films – warm, tender and vaguely familiar.
The aesthetics of English gardens, fields and private estates is Jo Malone’s main money horse, and the brand regularly jumps on it in between the more daring and non-obvious themes of its collections. So the new line of Marmalades cynically beats to defeat: the perfume pyramids promise jelly of rose petals, rhubarb compote and other edible gifts of British nature, to which, no matter how much you explore this topic, emotional immunity is not formed in any way. The most interesting fragrance in the collection is Elderflower Cordial, “Elderberry Liqueur”, smelling of fresh lemonade and gooseberry crumble.
PHOTO: Golden Apple