Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic

Those who love perfume and summer thunderstorms probably familiar with such “wet” blockbusters as Thunderstorm, Demeter, and Après l’Ondée, Guerlain. This time we tried to avoid first-level associations and chose scents that show rain from other, more unexpected sides.

Laudano nero

Tiziana terenzi

An unusual thing is a perfume about rain, in which the perfumer has managed to put amber, warm incense, an alcoholic accord and oud wood chips. The declared plot is as follows: Montmartre, a wet autumn evening, street artists pass a flask with something strong in a circle. The text on the brand’s website promises “warm, airy colors in the spirit of Renoir,” but a series of views of Montmartre, painted by Camille Pissarro in 1897, better match the sensations of Laudano Nero – a scent dense, thick and, let’s say, eventful. Especially this rainy boulevard, seen by the artist as if through a glass of cognac.

Rain is a cross-cutting character in the work of many authors: for the writer Ray Bradbury, for example, he wanders from cycle to cycle and from Venus to Mars, and for perfumer Christopher Brosius – from one fragrance to another. While still the owner of Demeter, Brosius spawned many notable puddles, in particular the excellent ozone-electric Thunderstorm, and later continued his wet business in CB I Hate Perfume. Here the perfumer really turned around: his M2 Black March, inspired by spring thunderstorms and the poem of the same name by British poet Stevie Smith, smells of damp earth and young greenery, November – rotten apples and damp firewood, Wet Stone – a wet embankment. But the most “rainy” one is Wet Pavement London, the smell of a big city after a rainstorm: wet concrete steam, wet moss in the park springs underfoot, thousands of heels knock water vapor out of the asphalt.

One of the most original fragrances in the Zoologist line, “Dragonfly” reproduces a whole biocenosis – a collection of animals, plants and microorganisms of a small pond. It is almost impossible to determine its perfume genre on the fly. Aquatic? Yes, perhaps: the dampness (it is called “rainwater” in the pyramid) is all-pervading here, and peonies and lotuses stuffed with dew, and wet rice, and small watery greens, reminiscent of watercress with their bitter, spicy smell, seem wet in Dragonfly. And then – flower powder, talc and aldehydes, something light, dry and airy, akin to the capital dragonfly. These things are practically incompatible, but within the complex, pearlescent Dragonfly they get along perfectly – that’s really a “faceted” scent.

Not rain, but his premonition – a tropical foreboding: hot and stuffy, the air becomes humid and as if trembling, the flowers smell stronger and brighter. Viscous, viscous ylang-ylang, in an unusual combination with wheat absolute – green and watery, an important part of another “wet” scent, En Passant, Frédéric Malle, appears on the skin with a fragrant sweat.

The French organic cosmetics brand Florame makes very good and at the same time quite cheap perfumery. Unfortunately, for some reason, that for some reason rises in price at times, stepping over the Russian border, but does not lose its best qualities: Patchouli Intense, for example, is no worse than the famous Voleur de Roses, L’Artisan Parfumeur, which reproduces the smell of a garden after rain, – these are wet patchouli and roses nailed to the ground by streams of water. Damp warmth and a grassy green spirit rise from the roots, some ripe, soft fruits have been blown off the branches by the wind – for another hour or two, and they will ferment.

The fragrance was released in 2015 as part of the Collection Croisière collection and at first was called simply Foudre – “Lightning”. But selling the weather and its manifestations turned out to be more difficult than flowers, so the composition was renamed – now it is “Flower of Lightning”. It sounds dubious and at the same time very accurate and comprehensive: Fleur de Foudre smells of exotic flora and a nearby thunderstorm.

For the first, champaka is responsible – a small orange magnolia native to Southeast Asia, fragrant with ylang-ylang, orange blossom, cloves and oriental spices. For the second – a synthetic substance aldemon with a pure, fresh and “radiant”, as described by perfumer Arkadi Bois Kamps, ozone-marine aroma. It is often used in the construction of voluminous perfumery landscapes that create the illusion of boundless, most often sea spaces: aldemon inflated the sails of such magnificent caravels as Davidoff Cool Water, Calvin Klein Escape for Men and Guy Laroche Horizon. All these beautiful, alien words – “cool water”, “horizon”, “flight, outlet” – go to Fleur de Foudre, the smell of distant islands, disheveled by a hurricane.

In the best perfumes of the old Florentine brand, the strong, spicy spirit of the monastery garden flies over the flowers, where herbs are grown for sick stomachs and nervous seizures – a reminder that Santa Maria Novella is first and foremost a pharmacy, and only then perfumery. Frangipane is probably the most “pharmacy” cologne in the line and one of the most original floral fragrances in general: the wet sweetness of its tuberose and plumeria has an obvious medicinal, clove-menthol tint – as if the flowers were mixed into a cough ointment and diluted with rain water.

PHOTO: ecco-verde, harveynichols, zoologistperfumes, cbihateperfume, selfridges, pierreguillaumeparis, aedes, parfumsdusita

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