9 airy scents that will soothe – VP


Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose republic

Big and serious research, that would prove the effect of odors on our physical condition does not exist: we still do not know for sure whether they affect, for example, the quality of sleep – contrary to the statements of many cosmetics manufacturers. But spirits that cause exceptionally pleasant emotions in you can become part of mental hygiene. With this in mind, we have chosen the calmest, deepest and most ventilated compositions – with the smell of pine forest, Florentine gardens and wasabi mountain plantations.

Italian patriotism takes on the finest forms, including in perfumery: the brand Onyrico (see below) dedicates its perfume to famous Italians, and Parco 1923 – flora of the Abruzzo National Park, the oldest protected area in the Apennine mountains. Everything is Abruzzi here: the local rare bear on the label, and the beautiful lid made of beech and light limestone, and, of course, the formula compiled by perfumer Luca Maffei under the guidance of park botanists. Do not expect lush bouquets: cold, coniferous green and mineral Parco 1923 is extremely distant from flower beds, which are regularly supplied to us by Italian perfumery today, – removed two kilometers in height. With its juniper-mossy mountain spirit, it reminds a bit of the famous Italian colognes of the past, for example Pino silvestre, but it is made at the same time an order of magnitude thinner or, rather, in a different technique: if “Pinot” is a dense gouache, then “Parko” is a soft, smooth sfumato.

Bois d’Hadrien

Goutal Paris

RUB 6300

for 30 ml, Rive Gauche stores

Bois d’Hadrien is a kind of citrus-woody flanker Eau d’Hadrien from 1981, one of the most famous fragrances Goutal Paris. For forty years the young cypresses of “Adrian’s Water” have grown to the sky and filled the entire visible space of the composition with their thick shadow: golden lemons have gone out, a spicy, sweetish-resinous, solemn coniferous spirit has emerged as an emerald wall.


Olfactive Studio

Panorama is one of the first perfume compositions built around the wasabi note (it seems that earlier it was released only Wasabi Shiso American indie brand DSH Perfumes). In most restaurants, a mixture of grated horseradish, green dye, mustard and all sorts of flavors is issued for a spicy Japanese seasoning – an inexpensive semi-finished powder that is diluted with water to make a paste. But real wasabi has a very complex taste and smell, spicy, spicy and at the same time sweet – the specific sweetness of this expensive vegetable, perfectly conveyed by the perfumer in Panorama is almost impossible to tamper with flavorings. Just like wasabi, this fresh, spicy perfume “pierces” the nose: it breathed in and seemed to let a little green freshness into the lungs.

Amber Teutonic

DS & Durga

Strictly speaking, the most breathable fragrance in the line DS & Durga, American brand, which to us brought at the end of last year is Firetrapper with its pine and cedar trees, mountain forest and the interior of a cooled sauna. The honorable second number will be Amber Teutonic, and it is about him that I want to write in more detail – if only because it is tragically misunderstood by perfume lovers. Probably it’s the name: you see the word amber and you immediately imagine a viscous and slightly monotonous perfumery East. But here is another story, devoid of languor – about the composer Gustav Mahler and his famous creative self-isolation in the bosom of nature, in tiny Komponierhäuschen – “composer’s houses” among the Austrian coniferous forests. It smells of “Teutonic Ambergris” of cedar shavings, the fresh wooden frame of a forest cottage, spruce resin and a pine cone smoldering in the fireplace – not quite symphonically, just very fresh and free.


Santa Maria Novella

Verbena is almost the main plant of modern vampire folklore: from numerous television and book franchises, we know that with the help of this herb you can ward off the most annoying bloodsucker. But stupefyingly – with lemon peel, flowers and fresh, menthol greens – a completely different verbena smells – lemon verbena, and it is its aroma that modern perfumery reproduces with some success. Verbena florentines Santa Maria Novella is the most accurate hit in this fragrant profile: here there is mint, and the bitterness of the zest, and the fresh, effervescent sweetness of the Uzbek lemon. I would like something like this to flow from the tap in the morning, acting as a mental antiseptic – from infection with blues.

Several years ago we already wrote about Tau of Italians Onyrico – perfume dedicated to Francis of Assisi, a Catholic mystic who preached birds and believed in the animality of animals and plants (even the medieval biography of the saint is a collection of folk legends about his life – called fioretti, “flowers”). Francis of Assisi traveled a lot and often spent the night in nature; Tau repeats part of the road he has done: he stumbles over mossy stones, chews frozen mastic resin, drinks from a cold forest stream and lines his arbitrary headboard with fragrant cypress branches. This fragrance is at the same time meek and austere, gentle and ascetic, Franciscan-style light on the rise: there is nothing superfluous in it, only air and endless love for all living things.

Perfume dedication to ancient Roman gardens, which, as we know, thanks to those found in Pompeii and Herculaneum frescoeswere thoughtfully scented – with oleanders, myrtle, lemon trees and a thick undercoat of aromatic herbs such as sage, rosemary and coriander. Pungent like a lavender sachet, the perfume will appeal to all lovers of bright herbal freshness.

Everything is fine in Di Ser, a brand of natural perfumery from the island of Hokkaido: the pure, delicate and slightly pharmacy style of her perfumes, their simple and poetic names (“Water”, “Spring wind”, “Crimson sunset”) and, most importantly, an emphasis on Japanese ingredients: yuzu, siso, lotus, kyara incense, etc. Tsuki, meaning “Moon”, smells fresh and green of wild herbs, washed with ghostly light: the delicate sweetness of fennel, the spicy cold of mint, geranium and juniper. If you need an instant portal to a perfect world Japanese landscape prints, then here it is.

Giardini di firenze

Farmacia SS. Annunziata

Santa Maria Novella is not the only perfume and cosmetics brand that has grown out of a monastery pharmacy; there are many similar ones in Italy, and Farmacia SS. Annunziata – one of the most respected and elderly, born in 1561. Her perfume is about the kind that is easy to fantasize, looking at the ornate coat of arms and black and white archival photographs on the site: an old-fashioned violet with talcum powder and iris with amber. All this perfumery is salon, palace – with a slight smell of dusty curtains, but Giardini di Firenze, “Florentine Gardens”, is a completely different matter – greenery with greenery on a pillow of greenery, the morning exhalation of a large park, strongly infused with mint and ivy.

PHOTO: parco1923, goutalparis, cothmotheca, rivegauche, smnovella, articoli, grasseclub, gents, raffaelo-network